Travel Review: Seattle

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Travel Review: Seattle

No Time For Sleep

Words by Becky Pomfret

Seattle offers a vibrant mix of urban culture, thriving arts, outdoor adventure and stunning natural scenery – the perfect sightseeing spot

Seattle travel review Inn at the Market and Pike Place Market Spanning nine historic acres, Pike Place Market is considered by many

Our trip to Seattle begins with an extraordinary journey from San Francisco, aboard Amtraks Coast Starlight train. Over the course of 22 hours, we watch California transform into Oregon, and finally Washington State. It is a long way, but it proves a memorable and fun journey; we have booked a roomette, a tiny cabin with bunk beds that transform back into seats during the day, and we are well fed, with three meals included in the ticket price. I while away most of the journey’s daylight hours in one of the train’s viewing carriages, watching, mesmerised, as the beautiful scenery unfolds.

On arrival in the Emerald City, we are just a short taxi ride from our perfectly located hotel. Inn at the Market is the only hotel in the famous Pike Place Market – a prime location that offers not just unparalleled access to the Market, but also boasts many more of Seattle’s leading landmarks and attractions on its doorstep.

The city is, of course, famous for its music scene, and the Inn has regularly hosted music royalty – superstars including Usher, Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love have stayed here over the years. The hotel even featured in the classic film, Sleepless in Seattle. I’m travelling with my film and music-loving son, who is delighted to be staying somewhere with so many stories to tell.

Museum of Popular Music Museum of Popular Music (MoPop)

The appeal for me is somewhat different – with three restaurants on site, it is quite simply foodie heaven. Guests at the Inn at the Market can choose from Café Campagne, a classic French bistro; Shiro Kashiba, an Omakase from the legendary sushi chef of the same name; and Bacco Café, a popular all-day eatery serving hearty American breakfasts and lunches. And there’s even more great food on offer in the immediate vicinity, too – a heavenly wander around Pike Place Market is not to be missed, offering up a whole feast of tasty treats.

First on our list when it comes to Seattle sightseeing is a visit to the iconic Space Needle. Offering incredible views of the city, it is a brilliant way for newbies to get a sense of place. Less well known is the nearby Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum, where we discover a breath-taking display of the glass sculptures of Dale Chihuly. As well as vibrant indoor galleries, there are stunning outdoor garden installations where the glassworks seem to bloom among the plants. It is both serene and beautiful. I would be happy to while away hours here, but I can tell that my son is itching to move on to something a little more him.

And so we find ourselves at MoPOP, or the Museum of Pop Culture. It is home to the world’s most immersive pop culture experiences, showcasing iconic moments in TV, rock ’n’ roll and science fiction; the Jimi Hendrix room is a particular highlight. We are also fascinated by the ‘Scared to Death’ exhibition, which certainly lives up to its name – a fascinating exhibit of Seattle’s finest horror collection, there are more than 50 props and costumes from a century of horror cinema on show.

The next day, we hop on a ferry over to Bainbridge Island. For the many locals who work in Seattle and live on the Island, this serves as their daily commute – and it sure beats the tube. With the island’s scenic beauty and small-town charm, coming home must feel like a true retreat from city life. Here, we discover lush forests, waterfront views and a bustling town centre packed with independent shops and restaurants. We spend a fun afternoon driving around admiring the beautiful houses and visiting some of the sights.

Pia Bainbridge Island Pia the Peacekeeper, a giant 18 ft troll that was created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo

The Japanese American Exclusion Memorial proves a very moving experience. Named Nidoto Nai Yoni (Let it Not Happen Again) – it is a reminder of what happened on 30 March 1942, when the first of more than 120,000 Japanese nationals – two-thirds of them American citizens – were banished from their West Coast homes to be sent to concentration camps during World War II. A memorial wall inscribed with their names winds solemnly down to the historic Eagledale ferry dock, from where the ships carrying them departed.

A more cheerful sight is Pia the Peacekeeper, a giant 18 ft troll that was created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. Known for producing large-scale sculptures from recycled materials, Dambo designed Pia as part of his Northwest Trolls project, blending environmental storytelling with whimsical art.

All of this exploring builds up an appetite, so we head downtown to Bruciato, where the divine Neapolitan-style pizzas are cooked in a wood-fired oven. Ours – topped with home-made sausage, local mushrooms, and buffalo mozzarella – is thin, crispy and utterly delicious, and we wash it down with a thirst-quenching local beer (Washington, we quickly discover, is THE place to come for independent breweries).

Learning that the first ever Starbucks opened in Seattle, we decide that a visit to the huge Starbucks Roastery in Capitol Hill is called for. Here, we marvel at the huge copper silos where the coffee beans are stored and take a seat at the beautiful teak and marble bar where coffee-based cocktails are served. There’s always time for an Espresso Martini, right? Powered by coffee, we head out for a spot of shopping; the area is well known for vintage clothes, and we discover some brilliant pieces before heading to the famous burger joint, Dick’s, for a spot of sustenance. Serving seriously good fast food, it’s easy to see why the locals love it here.

In fact, we’re spoilt for choice when it comes to eating out. Another favourite discovery is a Vietnamese fusion restaurant called Stateside. It is not much to look at, with just a few wooden tables, simply decorated and lit by bare filament lightbulbs, but we’re told that it’s the food and cocktails that bring the colour. And we couldn’t agree more, Master Stock Chicken: free range chicken poached in aromatic stock, then fried crispy, is literally a ‘winner winner chicken dinner’. And Chili Crisp Stroganoff: tender beef short rib, chewy potato cake and chanterelle mushrooms also hits the spot.

For a long weekend break, a stop off on an American adventure, or a longer stay, Seattle is perfectly placed. With so much cultural heritage, so many award-winning restaurants and such incredible scenery, I can’t wait to visit again.