Touching down in Glasgow after a brief hop from London Stansted, I was greeted by the familiar excitement of a journey into the unknown. Ahead lay three and a half hours of cinematic Scottish scenery – a drive along winding roads edged with lochs and glens. The journey concluded with a charming ferry crossing that set the tone for what lay ahead. The Luing ferry, a tiny vessel accommodating just three cars at a time, is a humble yet endearing gateway to the island, as if deliberately slowing your pace. My destination: the Isle of Luing (pronounced “Ling”), a secluded treasure in the Inner Hebrides, just 15 miles south of Oban. With a population of only 275, Luing is a place where nature takes centre stage and its wild and beautiful landscapes are matched only by an equally spirited community.
The island greets visitors with windswept coastlines, clusters of slate-roofed cottages, and a painter’s palette of colours. The acidic soil lends itself to a canvas of hydrangeas in deep pinks, burnt oranges and fiery reds that pop against a backdrop of frequent rainbows and slate tinted skies. The locals call it “the island that roofed the world”, thanks to its slate mining heritage of yesteryear, but today, Luing leans into its wilder, more serene side. The narrow roads hug cliffs that drop into the Atlantic, and twist and turn through rugged farmland, where the island’s famed rust-coloured cattle wander freely. Life here isn’t just slower; it feels timeless.
For the next few days, I was to call WildLuing home. This secluded retreat feels like an organic extension of the island itself, a project born from the Cadzow family’s deep- rooted love for Luing. The family has farmed the island for over 75 years, their legacy tied to both the famous Luing Cattle – a breed they developed to thrive in the island’s challenging conditions – and to their sustainable approach to living. WildLuing is a natural continuation of that philosophy, a place where the raw beauty of Luing is celebrated and preserved.
WildLuing is split into two spaces: The Observatory and eight luxurious WildSuites. The Observatory is the retreat’s social centre, where guests can gather around a large communal dining table offering sweeping views of the coast. Here, chef Kitty, alongside part-time chef Iain, serves up hyper-local, seasonal dishes made with farm-reared meats and fresh seafood from the surrounding waters. For those seeking solitude, pre-prepared meals can be delivered to the suite, ready to be enjoyed fireside under the stars.
WildLuing is not just a retreat; it’s a bridge to a simpler way of life
The WildSuites are a masterstroke in design, sustainability and comfort. Built by brothers Jack and Archie Cadzow, they rest on reclaimed railway sleepers to minimise their impact on the landscape. Their curved, cedar-clad exteriors blend unobtrusively into the landscape and their low profiles complement the natural and rugged contours of the island.
Inside, the suites are the perfect balance of rustic luxury and eco-conscious design. Decorated by Emily Cadzow and her mother-in-law, Tooti, the interiors feel grounding and inviting – soft linens, reclaimed wood, and expansive windows that flood the space with light and frame the dramatic scenery. My suite, Fladda, named after a nearby isle, felt like the perfect haven. A welcome hamper awaited, brimming with homemade treats and locally sourced goodies, including generous chunks of a neighbour’s speciality: Scottish tablet, perfect for an energy boost after a day outdoors.
That first evening, I sank into a bath infused with artisanal Highland-made products, listening to the rain patter softly on the roof. Later, wrapped up in a cosy blanket on my deck, I warmed myself beside the crackling firepit, watching the beauty of the Milky Way and stars unfold in the clear night sky. A wild storm raged overnight, but the following morning it had passed, leaving the air crisp and the sky painted with golden light. With a coffee in hand, I stood on the deck of my suite, watching as the hills beyond seemed to glow under the shifting clouds. On Luing, the weather changes often – sometimes dramatically – but it feels like an essential part of the island’s character. Even when the skies are moody, the suites offer a sense of shelter that never severs your connection to nature.
Exploring Luing is best done at a gentle pace. Coastal walking trails hug the coast and offer sweeping views of the Atlantic, and the chance to spot basking seals, cheeky otters, and swooping seabirds. For a different perspective, boat trips circle the island, with stops at Scarba, an uninhabited neighbour, for a hearty lunch at the Cadzow family’s hidden Bothy. After indulging, a brisk walk back to the boat shakes off the post-meal haze before heading to Corryvreckan, home to the world’s third-largest whirlpool, and a reminder of the sheer power of mother nature. For those keen to embrace the elements, fishing trips offer the opportunity to catch mackerel, which can later be cooked over an open flame (or made into sashimi) with nothing but the crackle of the fire and a dram of whisky for company.
Community is at the heart of life on Luing, and WildLuing invites you to join in. The Atlantic Islands Centre, Luing’s communal hub, hosts a variety of activities, from baking sessions to craft workshops. Locals are quick to share stories and smiles, making it easy to feel like a part of island life, even if only for a little while. Sustainability is not just a buzzword here, it’s a way of life. The Cadzows use practices like mob grazing and sward lifting, enriching the soil with seaweed to support biodiversity, while rotating cattle across fields allows the farmland to recover naturally. But it doesn’t stop there. A wind turbine provides renewable energy to parts of the island, rainwater is collected and used for irrigation, and even small touches like composting food waste and using eco-friendly cleaning products ensure that every detail supports the natural balance.
Every moment spent on Luing feels steeped in the island’s history – its wildness, its resilience, its sense of togetherness. WildLuing is not just a retreat; it’s a bridge to a simpler way of life. One where time is stretched and measured by the tides and the ever-changing sky, and where the warmth of the community is as enduring as the island’s slate cliffs. Whether for a weekend or a fortnight, a stay here feels like a return to nature, to stillness, and to the beauty of life unhurried.
