The dramatic backdrop of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, near Grindavik, makes an unforgettable setting for a truly special escape. Just 50 minutes from Reykjavik and 20 minutes from Keflavik Airport, The Retreat immediately immerses guests in Iceland’s ethereal beauty; I feel like I’ve been transported to the set of Moonraker. The hotel sits magnificently next to the bright waters of the Blue Lagoon, but before we dip our toes in, we sip on Champagne in front of an open fire in the huge lobby, gaping in wonder through the floor-to-ceiling windows at the lunar landscape that surrounds us.
The suites, designed in a sleek Nordic minimalist style, reflect the rugged surroundings with warm tones and natural textures, and, of course, the design celebrates the extraordinary views – in my cosy room, comfortable armchairs are arranged to look out over the lava fields. Thoughtful touches, like complementary minibars and generously sized Blue Lagoon toiletries, add to the experience. I’m told that some suites offer direct access to a private area of lagoon, providing guests with a secluded space to dip. It comes as no surprise that several high-profile guests have stayed in these over the years. As magical as this sounds, I’m more than happy in my roll top bath, which offers an equally appealing view.
Of course, the heart of the experience here is the geothermal lagoon, and we are eager to experience it for ourselves. The Blue Lagoon Ritual offers the perfect introduction: a three-step process featuring locally sourced silica, algae, and mineral oils, it promotes unparalleled relaxation. Once shown what to do, we get stuck in, liberally slathering on the natural products before rinsing off and exploring the lagoon. The water is gloriously warm, a lovely contrast to the crisp cold air. We also enjoy an in-water float therapy experience, which sees us dreamily drifting around the lagoon wearing an eye mask, being gently guided so that we don’t crash into each other. It is blissfully relaxing.
Dining here is just as much of an experience, with options ranging from casual bites at the Spa Restaurant to the Michelin-starred Moss. Breakfast is a dream, lining up shots of cod liver oil, and ginger, alongside incredible local bread, butter and cured salmon. At Moss, the seasonal tasting menu highlights both Icelandic and international flavours, with standout dishes including hearty Icelandic lamb and delicious Norwegian king crab. The volcanic rock wine cellar adds a unique touch. Here you can participate in tours and tastings before dinner. It is home to over five thousand bottles – if ever there was a place to be stranded, this would be it.
On our last evening we’re hopeful for some Northern Lights action, and we sit in the library playing Trivial Pursuit and backgammon, helping ourselves to the honesty bar before bedtime. The hotel offers a wake-up call if the lights make an appearance, so before heading to bed, in readiness for a quick dash up to the roof terrace, I line up the wool cloak that is provided in the room. Sadly, while the wake-up call comes, I’m far too sleepy after my day of ultimate relaxation to be roused, and I snooze right through it. To make up for my disappointment, I buy some beauty products made from the Lagoon’s silica to take home with me, and vow to come back and see those lights for myself one day soon.
