Bleary-eyed and balancing takeaway coffees, we meet at Stansted before sunrise – it’s an early start that only makes sense when Puglia’s waiting on the other side. By the time we land in Bari and make the 55-minute drive to Masseria Petrarolo, the Adriatic light is already working its magic. There’s something about this part of Italy – the olive groves, the dry-stone walls, the way time seems to stretch and soften – that tells us, immediately, we’re in for something special.
From the outside, the 17th-century masseria rises like a fortress, flanked by fields of lavender. Inside, it opens up like a storybook – all vaulted ceilings, cool stone walls and carefully mismatched antiques. British-Swiss entrepreneur Constant Tedder and interior designer James Thurstan Waterworth (formerly of Soho House) have created something that feels less like a holiday rental and more like the country home we wish we had. Here, sun hats hang from hooks and linen cushions fall just-so.
After a light lunch with our hosts, we explore the house more closely. There are nine bedrooms in total – each one different but sharing the same tactile, lived-in aesthetic. We drop our bags, open shutters onto verdant views, and wander barefoot across stone floors, letting the heat settle in our bones.
The afternoon unfolds gently, as is the way here. A leisurely stroll through the gardens, a splash in the curving beach-entry pool – as perfect for paddling as it is for lengths – and later, a rooftop soak in the adults-only spa pool with its panoramic views. It’s a place that invites slowness. There are hidden corners everywhere: a hammock here, a courtyard there, all designed for impromptu chats or solo escapes with a book and a glass of something local.
As the sun dips low, we regroup for drinks in the courtyard, golden hour casting long shadows across the limestone walls, it is a heady mix. Dinner follows – course after course of Puglian goodness, courtesy of chef Rita, who cooks like she’s feeding the family. Handmade orecchiette, local fish, vegetables pulled from the garden hours earlier – it’s all served with a motherly warmth that would be seriously hard to fake.
The next morning brings tennis for the brave (or at least the caffeinated), followed by a hysterical – given our poor efforts – pasta-making class that leaves us dusted in flour and full of pride. But there’s something deeply satisfying about eating a lunch we’ve just rolled out ourselves, especially when the setting includes olive trees, linen-draped tables, and a breeze that carries the scent of lemon blossom. That afternoon’s extended tour of the grounds – including the delightfully retro Airstream Petrarolo – gives us a deeper sense of how much love and thought has gone into this place. From the sustainable touches (on-site well, solar panels, kitchen garden) to the antiques sourced from across Europe, it is all meticulously considered.
After an afternoon of Hammam bliss and quiet time by the pool, we reassemble for another long, laughter-filled dinner under the stars. By now, a rhythm has emerged – early risers, late loungers, pool-dwellers, terrace readers, each carving out their own perfect stay.
The next day takes us beyond the masseria. We lunch at Terrazze Monachile – all cliffside views and just-caught seafood – then meander through Monopoli and Polignano a Mare with a local guide, stopping for espressos and snapshots along the way. Back at Petrarolo, there’s time for a last dip and a final feast before we wrap ourselves in blankets for stargazing on the roof terrace. The sky is cloudless, the wine is flowing, and we even spot Saturn through the telescope, its iconic rings clearly visible. We lie, heads tilted to the sky, and lose ourselves in the magic.
After breakfast the next day – always a beautiful, al fresco spread laid out by the team – it’s time to bid farewell to Petrarolo. Not goodbye exactly, more of a “see you soon”, we promise. We transfer to sister property Masseria Pistola, just half an hour away, but occupying its own pocket of paradise.
If Petrarolo feels like a grand but gentle estate, Pistola leans more contemporary – still grounded in its agricultural past, but with a sharper architectural edge. It sits high in the Canale Di Pirro valley, and the views here are extraordinary: wide, rolling and utterly cinematic. The ten-bedroom house is a masterclass in contrast – rough-hewn stone next to jewel- toned glassware, rustic beams above sleek tiled floors. The work of Thurstan Waterworth and the design team continues here, but the vibe is subtly different. More modern family home, less crumbling romance.
We arrive just in time for a garden tour of the Giardini Pistola – all native planting, wild herbs and Chelsea Flower Show- worthy landscaping. The garden spans nine hectares if you include the estate, but it never feels overwhelming. Instead, it invites you to wander, to pause, and to breathe a little deeper.
Lunch is at nearby Il Cortiletto – rustic and rambling, with food that reminds us why we’ve flown across Europe. Back at Pistola, we’re greeted by Giuseppe for a tour of the house: from the Mangatore dining room to the poolside kitchen, every space is made for gatherings. But there’s intimacy too – quiet corners in the gardens, secret spots for a sundown spritz or a morning yoga stretch.
That evening’s wine tasting, hosted at Tenuta Pistola, is a highlight. Think delicious local wines, thoughtfully paired bites, and spirited conversation. Dinner follows – a triumph from chef Antonio D’Errico, who champions seasonal ingredients and a big-hearted approach to hospitality.
On our final morning, we ease into the day with a restorative yoga and sound healing session, then gather for a long, lazy brunch (there’s definitely a theme here when it comes to the art of eating). There’s time to quiz the team on the restoration, the sustainable ethos, the plans for future retreats – and we leave inspired by the blend of design, nature and soul thatboth of these impressive masserias embody.
By the time we reach Brindisi Airport, sun-kissed and slightly sleepy, we’re already plotting a return. Because that’s the thing about Puglia – and especially these two extraordinary properties: they invite you to slow down, to tune in, and to remember what good living really looks like.
