TRAVEL / JUNE 2026
Travel: 48 Hours in Lisbon with Olivier da Costa
Few people know Lisbon's restaurant scene better than Olivier da Costa. The restaurateur behind some of the Portuguese capital's most talked-about dining destinations spends virtually every day moving between his venues, checking on guests, refining menus and keeping a close eye on every detail. We joined him for 48 hours to discover the city through the eyes of a true local, from seafood feasts and rooftop cocktails to hidden neighbourhood gems and the perfect pastéis de nata.
Words by Steven Short
Though he lives in a beautiful penthouse overlooking the city – complete with a super-luxe, fully kitted-out kitchen – Lisbon restaurateur Olivier da Costa admits, “I’ve probably only eaten at home twice in the past five years.” With nine restaurants in the Portuguese capital, each distinct yet unmistakably stamped with his style and attention to detail, it’s hardly surprising. Da Costa likes to visit his venues on a daily basis – “I need to see what’s happening, that everyone is doing their best, that guests are happy” – often having lunch in one, dinner in another and stopping elsewhere for an evening drink (an ice-filled vat of Coke rather than wine or port).
A Lisbon native with food in his DNA; his father was one of Portugal’s first star chefs, a regular on television in the 1970s, 80s and 90s, and da Costa opened his first restaurant, Olimpio, in 1996. Previous early ventures include selling T-shirts at the tender age of 14 and later, luxury hampers. Now something of a culinary national treasure, he’s regularly stopped for selfies; one of his restaurants even features a wall of fame of photos of him with celebrity visitors. I was lucky enough to spend time with da Costa on my recent first trip to Lisbon.
“What took you so long?” he laughs when I confess to being a Lisbon rookie. “We have such a strong sense of flavour here – Portuguese food really should be the biggest trend.”And if he has his way, it will be.
Alongside his commercial and marketing director right-hand man, Joel Pires, da Costa heads The Olivier Group, which specialises in design-led, immersive hospitality across seven countries and three continents. The group has 36 restaurants – in Portugal, Brazil, Spain, Italy and beyond – and is currently searching for the right spot in London, most likely in Chelsea.
We meet at his Lisbon flagship, ÀCosta, which overlooks the Tagus and draws inspiration from the flavours of the sea. At lunchtime it’s packed with well-heeled locals tucking into the dish of the day: a hearty stew of steamed chicken, beef, lamb and at least five different types of sausage. “This stew sums up everything good about Portuguese cooking,” says da Costa.
ÀCosta also serves modern twists on classic rice and fish dishes, along with a whole seafood menu featuring the likes of gratinated seafood crêpes with mushrooms, leeks and bisque, and grilled lobster with butter, bisque, potatoes and rice, crowned with a fried egg.
After lunch, I wander up to São Jorge Castle through winding streets dotted with cafés, ginja (local cherry liqueur) bars and boutiques selling local crafts. One of Lisbon’s many charms is its tiled buildings – some in classic Portuguese motifs, others in retro patterns straight out of the 1960s and ’70s – and vintage trams, which pass me as I climb the hills to the castle.
My next stop is Homecooking Lisbon, where I learn to make Portuguese custard tarts. We make puff pastry from scratch before lining trays – far fiddlier than the teacher makes it look – and then adding the custard. I’ve always struggled with custards and béchamel sauce, but learn that starting with cornflour and cold milk beats hot butter and flour as a base. The result: a tray of pastéis de nata that genuinely look shop-bought.
Later, I meet Olivier at my hotel, the upscale Tivoli Avenida Liberdade – close to the Moorish quarter, great shopping and the castle, and complete with an Anantara spa and outdoor pool. The hotel is also pet friendly – it made me laugh to see a pet bathroom at Lisbon airport. The Tivoli is home to SEEN, da Costa’s hip and happening rooftop bar and restaurant, which fuses Brazilian and Portuguese cooking. Think miso-marinated black cod with vegetables and celery purée, or chimichurri octopus with cauliflower purée and sun-dried tomato chimichurri.Here, though, it’s cocktails that steal the show. I work my way through the menu while Olivier circulates, greeting guests and ensuring everything runs smoothly. I could happily sip a Wasabi Papi – Bombay Dry Gin, lemongrass, wasabi, ginger and lime – all day, then finish with a Wiky Spring – Hatozaki whisky, Tio Pepe, sakura and orange bitters. As you’d expect there’s also an excellent port and wine list and a champagne menu that goes from from Veuve Clicquot and Ruinart to a 2000 Krug and a P3 1992 Dom Pérignon.
For a showstopping, Instagram-ready dinner, da Costa points me to Yakuza by Olivier, his sleek Japanese-fusion spot tucked discreetly behind the hotel, inspired by the Japanese mafia. Some dishes arrive smoking; others look like Guy Bourdin still-lifes. There’s also a vast counter where you can watch the sushi chefs at work.
As I’m on a flying visit, I ask Olivier about ‘his’ Lisbon and what visitors shouldn’t miss...
How would you describe Lisbon in three words? Light. Soulful. Addictive.
And its people? Warm, authentic and beautifully relaxed with a natural elegance no one can replicate.
What’s your favourite neighbourhood and why? Liberty Avenue. It’s the perfect balance between contemporary and traditional: independent shops, restaurants with identity, incredible gardens, and a creative energy that never stops.
How about the food? How would you describe Portuguese food to someone who’s never tried it? Honest, ingredient-driven, and surprisingly refined. It’s Mediterranean at heart, Atlantic in flavour and deeply emotional in the way it brings people together.
What would be your perfect meal? Starter: a perfect ceviche or a silky tuna tartare. Fresh, vibrant, precise.Main: a flawlessly grilled fish, just olive oil, sea salt and a squeeze of lemon. Simplicity in its perfect form. Dessert: a warm chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. Classic, indulgent and impossible to resist.
Your favourite Lisbon shops for design? Fashion? Rosa e Teixeira and Mustra.
How would you spend a perfect weekend here? Breakfast on a sunny terrace, a long walk by the river, a late seafood lunch, a nap (essential), sunset cocktails, dinner with friends and, of course, music. Lisbon is all about rhythm – the slow, irresistible kind.
If someone only had 48 hours to spend in Lisbon, what shouldn’t they miss? A view from a miradouro (any will do, but São Pedro de Alcântara never fails), a seafood feast, the historic streets of Alfama and a night out that starts slowly…and who knows where it ends.
Tell us a Lisbon secret… The best Lisbon isn’t in postcards or guidebooks: it’s behind discreet doors, in neighbourhood restaurants serving perfect dishes without fuss.
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