TRAVEL / OCTOBER 2025
Review: Penmaenuchaf, Snowdonia
A stylish retreat in the heart of Wales’s Eryri National Park is the perfect getaway, where your only problem is deciding...outdoors, or in?
Words by Katie Hutley
Like most people lured to the dramatic splendour of Penmaenuchaf, I came for the wild: the glory of Eryri National Park (that’s Snowdonia to some), the soul-cleansing scenery, and the rare luxury of stillness, far from the madding crowd. What I didn’t expect was to find a hotel so stylish and inviting it made me briefly question whether I actually wanted to go outside at all.
Perched high above the Mawddach estuary in Dolgellau, Penmaenuchaf (pronounced Pen-mine-ee-haf, but familiarly known as ‘Pen’) is the country pad fantasy brought to life—grand but unpretentious, it feels more like the second home of your most stylish friend than a stuffy hotel.
The stone facade has stood since the 16th century, but inside, it’s all been quietly transformed thanks to a top-to-toe revamp by designer Nicola Harding, whose signature palette of bold colours, vintage finds and warm textures makes every corner feel like the house you wish you could call home. From the gentle glamour of the new lobby bar, which is straight out of a coffee table book on impeccable style, to the nest-like bedrooms and suites with sweeping, heart-stopping views, nothing feels too polished to put your feet up. And you’ll want to: after a day spent in the Welsh wilds, with its welcoming vibe (and roll top baths), it’s the kind of indoors you dream of coming back to.
On a crisp, clear morning, we met the wonderful Kath Goodey from Ride High MTB, who took us into the sprawling trails of Coed y Brenin Forest Park for a guided mountain biking session. Kath set up her business after a career volte face (one of many, in fact), and a longing to return to her childhood passion of biking, and spending time in nature. She’s the best possible advocate for the outdoors lifestyle, and not only made our foray into e-mountain biking accessible, her enthusiasm was positively infectious. After a thorough training session, and trial runs on the purpose-built ‘skill building’ tracks, we set off.
City girl that I am, my previous cycling experience has mostly involved dodging black cabs on a Lime bike, so when I inevitably took a (thankfully gentle) tumble whilst tackling an uphill, hairpin bend, I did so with comedic inevitability, and, mercifully, nothing damaged except my ego (well, maybe a bruised extremity or two). Kath, though, was pure joy—patient, funny, incredibly knowledgeable, and the kind of woman you instantly want to be friends with. We whooped through the trees, laughed a lot, and by the end I was almost convincing myself I could take this up back home.
Coed y Brenin is just one jewel in this under-appreciated Welsh crown. The landscape around Penmaenuchaf is every bit as majestic as the Lake District—towering peaks, mirrored lakes, valleys that seem to roll on forever—but without the coachloads and car parks. There were times we felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. Whether you’re hiking up Cadair Idris or meandering around the Precipice Walk above Llyn Cynwch, the sense of space and solitude is rare and addictive. This latter we undertook after mountain biking, and is a true find – a surprisingly gentle incline that’s rewarded with an eagle’s eye view of the valleys below and the estuary winding its way to the sea. A truly magical sight.
That sense of discovery continued in the nearby market town of Dolgellau, where we joined a wine tasting at Dylanwad, an independent wine shop championing a growing Welsh wine scene. I’ll admit I was sceptical—Welsh wine? But we were won over instantly. The tasting was fascinating and genuinely eye-opening, showing how this rainy corner of the UK is quietly producing crisp whites and complex reds that rival their continental cousins. Dylan, our host, regaled us with tales of tracing lost family in Madagascar, of the economic challenges facing suppliers and how they’re rising to them, of the larger than life characters breathing vitality into the industry. He apologised once or twice for “going off on a tangent”, clearly not realising that we were as rapt by his raconteurim as we were impresed with the product! We left not just with bottles, but stories, and a warm new respect for the Welsh terroir.
Back at Penmaenuchaf, the indoors adventure continued with a baking class led by Head Chef Dan Andree, where we tried our hand at making Bara Brith and Welsh cakes. Even sweeter than the results were Finn and Charlie, the adorable dogs belonging to Dan and Christie, the charming hotel manager. She and Dan have taken wholeheartedly to Dolgellau life, and that love shines through in every element. That’s Pen all over, in fact; where everyone remembers your name, wher, nothing is too much trouble…the ideal retreat, in other words.
And then, of course, there’s the food. Afon, the in-house restaurant, deserves a spotlight all of its own. Dan’s menus—whether à la carte or the tasting option—are built around bold, local ingredients. Venison from Coed y Brenin, sea bass caught off the Welsh coast, vegetables plucked from the hotel’s own garden. Every plate is a mini masterpiece, and the setting—huge windows, warm lighting, ambience softened by the covetable Welsh wool hanging on the wall —only heightens the magic.
Leaving was undertaken reluctantly, to say the least. It’s not just that Penmaenuchaf is beautiful, or that the surroundings make you feel tiny in the best possible way. It’s that it resonates on a deep level; the feeling of peace, the playful aesthetic.
I came home inspired to channel Nicola’s joyful mix of heritage and quirk into my own living space (a salvaged dresser here, a pop of burnt orange there… just don’t tell the husband). It’s wild and cosy, elegant and relaxed, steeped in history yet thoroughly modern. It gave me fresh air in my lungs, mud on my boots, a few bruises (thanks, hairpin bend), and some design envy I may never recover from. I’m already pining to go back.
Rates at Penmaenuchaf start from £230 per night, on a B&B basis, with rates in a Mawddach Suite from £650 per night. For more information and to book see penmaenuchaf.co.uk.
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