Every so often, when I travel from Victoria station, I spot the Belmond British Pullman train. With the tables in its luxurious carriages laid up with crisp linen cloths and sparkling silver and glassware, it is an utterly beguiling sight – a world away from the scruffy commuter train I am usually squashed onto.
With mum’s 80th birthday approaching, my siblings and I decide that experiences are more important than gifts, and book tickets for a round-trip to Bath as a birthday treat. Recalling the golden age of British railways, it promises to be the ultimate gourmet getaway, with a delicious three-course brunch served on the outbound journey, then time to explore Bath before a Champagne reception on the return to the train, followed by a gourmet four-course dinner accompanied by wine chosen by the sommelier, coffee, tea, and petit fours.
Dressed up in suitably smart attire, we excitedly arrive at the station, where the train is already standing at the platform. A live jazz band is playing, and we are met with a glass of sherry by our friendly steward, Rocco, who shows us to our private compartment in Perseus. Each of the beautifully restored vintage carriages has its own story, and Perseus, we are told, was built in 1938 and had the honour of carrying Winston Churchill’s body to his funeral in 1965.
Inside, exquisitely polished burr marquetry lines the walls, copper luggage racks gleam and the sumptuous armchairs are upholstered in beautiful heritage fabric. There are freshly cut flowers on the table, which has been laid ready for brunch, with fine bone china and silver cutlery that gleams in the light of the vintage table lamp. Coffee and a three-course brunch await, but first, a bellini, made with fresh fruit puree and ice-cold prosecco; we can’t help feeling a little smug as we pull out of the station.
Chef Jon Freeman joined the Pullman team nearly two decades ago, falling in love with the challenges of cooking incredible produce on a moving train
All food served on the train is cooked in the on-board kitchen – this is truly fine dining to rival the best London restaurants. Chef Jon Freeman joined the British Pullman team nearly two decades ago, falling in love with the challenges of cooking incredible produce on a moving train. The irresistible brunch menu features flaky, freshly baked pastries; homemade granola with fresh berries, whipped yoghurt and tangerine syrup; and smoked salmon royale served with caviar. There’s even hand rolled truffles to accompany the coffee that follows.
Everything is so perfect that we naturally find ourselves overindulging, and a small walk afterwards is necessary to work off the excesses. As we walk up the train, we “ooh” and “aah” over its elegance; each carriage is different, some art deco in style, others flamboyantly art nouveau. Though the types of wood used, the upholstery tones and patterns, and the lighting are varied, each carriage has one thing in common – everything is as much a feast for the eyes as our brunch was for the taste buds. We arrive in Bath and it’s the first visit for all of us, so we take a slow wander around the city, heading up to the Royal Crescent and then to the Jane Austen Centre situated in a beautiful Georgian building. 2025 marks the 250th anniversary of Jane Austen’s birth, so it’s a great time to visit, and the timetable allows plenty of time to explore.
Back at the station, a special tannoy announcement lets us know that our train is arriving. Smug levels are once again at record levels, and as we settle back into our comfy armchairs with a chilled glass of Veuve Clicquot, Mum tells us that this is the best day of her life – it is about to get better, though.
A gourmet four-course dinner is next, but not before our Champagne is topped up and a chilled bottle of rosé arrives. British Pullman sources all meats and seafood locally, as part of their sustainable future policy, and the quality is evident. Dish after delicious dish is presented to us: Cornish hake, rump of Kent lamb, a seasonal cheese selection and a glazed lemon tart. Everything tastes sensational, and the presentation and service are immaculate; this is fine dining as we have never experienced it before.
Indeed, the whole experience sets the bar so high that it will likely ruin all future travel plans. Even the bathrooms (think mosaic tiles, fresh flowers and heavenly scented hand cream) rival any you’d find in a five-star hotel. We don’t want this journey to ever end.
As we approach the London suburbs, chief steward Keith pops by for a chat, and as he tops up our wine, he tells us about his love for the Pullman. He and the staff see themselves as custodians of a legacy, a moving museum that is steeped in history. The carriages each cost around £3 million to renovate and restore. One of them, Rainbow, was burnt down by a neglected cigar, but re-born as Phoenix – it is said to have been a favourite car of the late Queen Mother.
After we reluctantly disembark at Victoria, the train chugs off, returning to its home, south of Battersea Power Station. I imagine Keith and his team lovingly tucking the carriages in for the night, giving them the care and respect they truly deserve. It has been a day of fabulous dining and unforgettable memories; we just need another milestone birthday or big celebration as an excuse to try out the Sunday lunch round trip to Kent, or maybe a gastronomic evening onboard with Michelin-starred Indian chef Atul Kochhar – the options are many and irresistible.
