A personal quest for the perfect boot led Penelope Chilvers to launch her eponymous footwear brand, motivated by a desire to create beautifully made footwear to be loved and worn forever
Tell us about how you came to launch your label
I was a painter originally, and later moved into interiors and fashion. I was always drawn to the tactile and the handmade, to colour and heritage, and to stories woven through craft. While living in Barcelona, I used to enjoy horse riding in the Collserola Park. Unable to find the perfect riding boots, I decided to commission a talented artisan – who had made boots for famous bullfighters and Hollywood film stars in the seventies – to create dream boots made to my measurements. When I came back to London all my friends wanted to order some;
I started to work on creating a mini collection of six new equestrian inspired boot styles with the artisan. That was the beginning of the brand. They proved so popular, in 2002 I took a space at a trade show during Paris Fashion Week and was thrilled by the response. I sold the collection to stores all over the world, taking orders on the back of an envelope, with no order book and no time to run out and buy one! I opened my first shop in 2004 in Notting Hill, which quickly became a destination for customers looking for beautifully crafted, timeless footwear with a strong sense of individuality and provenance.
We truly are a cross-generational brand, with celebrity fans ranging from rock stars to royalty. Alexa Chung was frequently spotted wearing our velvet slippers in the front row during London Fashion Week, and I’m thrilled to be championing this silhouette with a new range for AW25. Other celebrity fans include the Princess of Wales, Rihanna, Sienna Miller, Jodie Comer, and Cate Blanchett, to name just a few.
My ambassadors are all intelligent, dynamic women who are always on the go. I still get a thrill whenever I see someone wearing my designs, whether walking down the street or waiting in the airport security queue. It was especially exciting to see Kelly Reilly, who plays Beth Dutton in one of my favourite series, Yellowstone, wearing our Lucia Rociera boots on the show, while Kathryn Kelly, who plays Emily, is a fan of our horse-bit clogs. There are now five Penelope shops in the UK. Last year we opened our first country store, in Stow on the Wold in the Cotswolds, and you can also find us in Notting Hill, on Duke Street in Mayfair, plus Elizabeth Street and the King’s Road.
Combining contemporary, fashion-led design with enduring style and traditional craftsmanship, Penelope Chilvers produces timeless, made-to-last pieces that work seamlessly with each season’s trends
What’s your brand philosophy?
My philosophy is simple but deeply rooted: to create timeless, beautifully made footwear that people fall in love with and wear forever. We design with purpose – every detail considered, every material thoughtfully chosen. We champion tradition, but always with a spirit of curiosity and contemporary relevance.
Comfort and longevity are just as important to me as beauty and design. I always say our shoes should feel as good as they look, and ideally become more ‘you’ with every wear. I like to think our pieces are for people who have a sense of individuality – who are drawn to quality and authenticity and enjoy expressing themselves through what they wear.
What inspires your collections?
I’m endlessly inspired by travel, craft, and the natural world. My collections often start with a place or a person – someone who embodies a certain spirit, someone curious, expressive, and attuned to beauty in the everyday.
I also draw a lot from history, particularly female trailblazers – artists, adventurers, rebels. For example, our AW25 collection is inspired by the Bloomsbury Group. I was fascinated by their experimental spirit, radical thinking, rule breaking and adventure loving spirit.
And then, of course there’s Spain, which will always be central to what we do. It’s where all of our footwear is still made – by hand, using traditional techniques by a small family run business – and where so many of my original inspirations began.
What do you see as being the big trends in footwear this summer?
There’s definitely a return to joy and colour in fashion generally, and I think you’ll see that in footwear too. We’re seeing a revival of embellishment – braiding, embroidery and unexpected contrast. People want pieces that feel expressive and mood-lifting, but still practical.
Comfort continues to be key – but it’s become more sophisticated. Think cushioned footbeds, flexible soles, and lightweight materials – but applied to styles that still feel elevated. I’d say the perfect summer shoe is one that takes you from beach to gallery to rooftop drinks. We’re also noticing a strong demand for artisanal details – shoes that feel hand-touched and storied. That might be a handwoven espadrille, the ‘sun-salutation’ embroidered cowboy boot, or one of our woven leather sliders.
Tell us about your latest collection
Our latest collection takes a spirited approach to summer dressing – it is light, playful and informed by travel. We’ve introduced new takes on classics, from our leather sandals with whipstitch details to embroidered satin espadrilles in navy or rose. There’s always a strong undercurrent of craft throughout our collections; you’ll see intricate stitching, woven jute soles and hand-embroidered details.
How do you want people wearing a pair of your shoes to feel?
I want them to feel like the best version of themselves – comfortable, confident, and completely at ease. There’s no more flattering look than someone who walks into a room and feels grounded in their own skin.
Our shoes are designed to move with you – to fit your life, whether that’s walking the dog, hosting friends in the garden, or dashing through an airport. I love that our customers tell us they’ve had their Penelope Chilvers boots for ten years or more, that they’ve taken them everywhere and they’re still going strong. Ultimately, I think our footwear connects with people on an emotional level. It’s not about chasing trends – it’s about finding something that really reflects who you are.
Is there anyone you’d really love to see wearing one of your designs?
Honestly, I get the biggest thrill when I spot someone in our shoes in an unexpected moment – at a train station, in a little café, or walking through a garden. That’s the real magic. And of course, we’ve been very fortunate to have had the support of the Princess of Wales over the years. She’s worn our boots on royal visits and in her everyday life, which speaks volumes about their practicality and appeal.
How do you ensure sustainability?
It has always been in our DNA – long before it became a buzzword. For us, it starts with making things well, using natural, responsibly sourced materials, and ensuring that our shoes are made in environments where people are respected and craftsmanship is valued.
We work with family-run factories in Spain and Portugal who share our commitment to slow fashion. Many of our artisans have been with us for over a decade, and their skills are integral to the integrity of the brand. We use vegetable-tanned leathers, and natural fibres wherever possible. We’re not perfect – no brand is – but we’re constantly looking for ways to improve and reduce our footprint.
We also believe in educating customers about the beauty of slow fashion. We encourage repairs, we talk about re-wearing and restyling. Longevity is perhaps the most sustainable act of all.
What’s new/next for Penelope Chilvers?
We’re working on expanding our PC Pioneer community – a space for women who are doing remarkable things in the world. Whether they’re artists, gardeners, entrepreneurs, or explorers, we want to champion those who live life with curiosity and courage. It’s about sharing stories, fostering connection, and shining a light on creative, sustainable living. We’re also looking at deepening our commitment to craft, particularly through more collaborations with artisans globally. Our customers love pieces that feel personal and rare, so we’re responding to that with limited-run collections and more bespoke details. And of course, we’ll continue to evolve thoughtfully – always with one eye on the future, but both feet firmly grounded in our values. My dream is that our shoes become trusted companions for generations of women to come.
And finally, we have a new Bloomsbury inspired collection of what I’m calling ‘proper shoes’ launching for AW25 in September. There are five styles in this androgynous collection, drawn from the archives of our artisan bootmakers in southern Spain using Goodyear welt. They are made using sustainably sourced leather and suede, and featuring intricacies such as punching, broguing, fringing and buckle detailing.
