Once the sole preserve of interior design teams, Nicholas Oakwell’s couture uniforms allow the teams at some of the world’s most famous luxury hotels to help deliver that all important ‘sense of place’
Tell us a little about how NO Uniform came to be?
I studied fashion in the 80s, in one of the modules, millinery, I was taught by Shirley Hex, who also mentored Stephen Jones and Philip Tracy. I loved using my hands and learning a craft, and produced a collection of 16 hats for my degree show – amazingly, Harvey Nichols bought the entire collection. After that things moved very quickly, I was making hats for London-based and European designers, as well as working on my own label, selling worldwide. I found myself employing eight members of staff and not knowing a thing about business — I was only 23! Realising I still had so much to learn, I closed the business after three years, going on to work for a Danish couture designer for six years, starting in the workroom. I was promoted to head of workroom then head of operations. It was a steep learning curve but I was lucky to work alongside artisans who had been in the couture workrooms of Dior, Chanel, Valentino…
From there I returned to working for Harvey Nichols. They allowed me to undertake many training courses in topics such as financing departments, health and safety, HR and marketing. On reflection, these lessons set me up to run a business – I think of that era as my business education. Whilst there, a friend asked me to design some uniforms for a boutique hotel in Chelsea. So, there I was, working on my first hotel, which employed a staff of just 45 people. At the opening party, I met the general manager of the Great Eastern Hotel. She asked if I would design the uniforms for her hotel. My reply was that ‘I’m a designer – I don’t do uniforms’. She responded by sharing her budget for the project, which was £250k for 200 staff. After saying ‘yes’ and almost biting her arm off to accept the opportunity, I found my identity in the hospitality scene.
So, NO Uniform was born in 2002. I spent nine months painstakingly designing, sampling, manufacturing and installing the uniforms for the Great Eastern Hotel. From that, I was asked to design the uniforms at The Goring and Brown’s Hotel. NO Uniform continued to win and complete projects around the world. Between 2019 and 2020, during the Covid-19 pandemic, we managed to deliver two hotels — Nobu Hotel London Portman Square and The Jumeirah Carlton Tower. It was a very challenging landscape for everyone and it forced us to adjust how we worked. In the wake of the pandemic, when the hospitality industry was, indeed, waking up from its deep sleep, NO Uniform continued to grow. Winning projects in the Middle East, such as Raflles Doha and Fairmont Doha, allowed us to really flex our creative muscles in the international arena.
In 2023, NO Uniform delivered for the new 3,644-room Fontainebleau Las Vegas, and its sister hotel in Miami in 2024. And that takes us to now: in 2024 we have delivered our bespoke wardrobes for Mandarin Oriental Mayfair and Les Trois Rois in Switzerland, while also working to complete two large scale projects over in New York.
How do you want people wearing your pieces to feel?
Empowered, and like the garment was designed for them. Sure, we can design a beautiful wardrobe that looks great on a rail, but there is nothing like seeing your work being worn by a team that really ‘performs’ in their uniforms. Every individual should feel part of the team, the brand, the product itself, so the wardrobe needs to fi t well, feel comfortable and be fit for purpose, along with flattering every body shape, which is down to cut and fit.
What are your views on designing gendered uniforms?
I consider dress to be a vital form of self-expression, and that belief extends to wearing a uniform as an employee. Obviously, we are still required to design for traditional gender silhouettes throughout hospitality, but ultimately, we want to empower individuals. In recent years, our male blocks have had much more shape to them. At the same time, a lot of female staff members we are measuring would prefer trousers over dresses. Perhaps this is a practical request, but nonetheless it shows that the lines between male and female are blurring. We always work with each individual, adapting their requirements within the range we have created, to make it work for them. Each situation and person is unique, and we want people’s personalities to shine through, as this is one of the reasons they would have been employed.
We work with each individual, adapting their requirements within the range we have created, to make it work for them
Are there any companies you’d really love to design for?
I am blessed to have had such an array of clients – all leaders in their industry – and I can only wish to keep adding to this client base and to continue to work on exciting projects. We are known for designing super luxury level uniforms, which is great, but it would be good to work on some larger global uniform projects, allowing this level of design to reach more brands and wearers.
Can you tell us about the role of sustainability in your business?
I could talk about this endlessly to be honest – we are pumping so much resource into research and development around sustainable materials. Firstly, the uniforms we design, by definition really, have to have a long shelf life. That in itself is a challenge against the conventional conceptions around a fashion business thriving.
At NO Uniform we ensure minimal environmental impact through key practices such as recycling old garments into new wearables or other products, using eco-friendly vegetable starch plastic packaging, and opting for innovative, animal-free materials like olive pip leather. Our dedication to sustainability drives us to reduce waste, lower our carbon footprint, and support a circular economy for a better future. By embracing sustainable methods, we not only contribute to the preservation of our planet, but also align with the values of environmentally conscious hotels and their guests.
What’s next for NO Uniform?
Our clients are becoming more global, so we have projects in New York, Middle East, Far East, Europe… Though with NDAs in place, I cant go into too much detail about them. We will start having satellite offices to be hands on with our international clients, so we can deliver exceptional service as well as great wardrobes.
