Tucked away in the heart of Coal Drops Yard, Porte Noire feels like a deliciously well-kept secret. Dimly lit, with deep green walls, and floor-to-ceiling shelves lined with over 800 bottles of wine, it has an intimate, relaxed vibe – this is the kind of spot that works equally well for a quiet midweek glass of wine or a long, indulgent dinner.
The wine list is, unsurprisingly, exceptional. From bold Burgundies to crisp Sancerres, the selection is vast but thoughtfully curated, and the knowledgeable staff are on hand to recommend the perfect pairing. We jump at the chance to try out the restaurant’s own-label Porte Noire Champagne, a crisp and elegant choice that sets the tone for the evening. Recently awarded two AA Rosettes for culinary excellence by the AA Restaurant Guide, the food menu holds its own against the stellar wine selection, offering simple, beautifully executed dishes that lean towards classic European flavours.
To start, the arancini arrives golden and crisp, its creamy centre infused with earthy truffle and sharp Parmesan. It’s comforting yet refined, the kind of dish best served with a glass of something rich and oaky. The black cod is another standout, its silky, miso-glazed flesh flaking beautifully with each forkful, balanced by a delicate sweetness that lingers on the palate. As the food is seasonal, this is not always on the menu, but I strongly advise you to order it if you see it.
Meanwhile, the beef rib is all about drama and indulgence: served on a huge platter, it is carved at the table. Slow-cooked to perfection, the beef is impossibly tender, and comes accompanied by a deep, glossy jus that begs to be mopped up.
Service is relaxed but attentive, striking that perfect balance of being knowledgeable without feeling overbearing. There’s a quiet confidence to Porte Noire – it knows exactly what it’s doing, delivering exceptional food and wine in a space that feels effortlessly cool, yet warmly inviting. Adding to the charm enormously is David’s dog, Cooper, who confidently weaves his way around the tables, tail wagging excitedly. Never begging for food, he might just be the best maître d’ on the London restaurant scene.
While the weather isn’t on our side, the big canal-side terrace looks an appealing spot for people-watching. So tempting, that owner David tells us passing paddleboarders have been tempted to hop onto dry land for a quick glass of wine. It’s that sort of place; unfussy and unpretentious, at the same time as sophisticated and grown up; something for everyone.
