There are few London restaurants quite as storied – or as beloved – as Julie’s in Holland Park. Opened in 1969 by the charismatic interior designer Julie Hodgess, the restaurant quickly became a favourite with the Capital’s glitterati, with a client list that famously included Diana Ross and Mick Jagger. After a lengthy closure and an extensive refurbishment, Julie’s reopened its doors just over a year ago, to great anticipation, bringing a refreshed elegance that feels both timeless and contemporary.
We have the joy of celebrating my mum’s 80th birthday here, and it proves the perfect setting. The new interiors nod affectionately to the restaurant’s decadent past: stained glass, carved wood, and velvet banquettes create a sense of intimate, slightly bohemian glamour. It’s theatrical without being overwhelming – a rare balance. The lamp-lit ground floor has maximalist bistro-chic nailed, with comfy velvet seating, retro patterned wallpaper and café curtains.
We are warmly welcomed by the staff, and shown downstairs to the basement, past a group of friends celebrating a birthday of their own, to our table in a wonderfully private alcove. The arched ceiling here is covered in cork, not only nodding to the restaurant’s 1970s heyday, but also creating a very cosy effect, not to mention ensuring our rowdy family doesn’t have to worry about noise (a particular bugbear of mine is restaurants with no soft furnishings to soak up the sound!). The comfortable curved seating makes it easy for us to talk to each other, and we relax into the plush velvet cushions to enjoy our meal.
Service is warm, attentive and utterly professional, setting exactly the right celebratory tone. Our waiter tells us he is part of a large family himself, so understands the sibling dynamics (and banter) at the table. The menu offers a concise, confident, modern European selection. We decide to share some starters: bread with an incredible roasted onion and garlic butter, some gooey, smoky raclette croquettes with a piquillo pepper aioli, salt-baked beetroot with goats’ cheese and hazelnut salad, and a generous portion of tuna tartare. For mains, everybody is drawn to the same classic: the steak haché. It arrives perfectly pink, with a buttery, peppered jus pooling around it. Paired with crisp, golden pommes frites and a sharply dressed green salad, it is simple, unshowy, and thoroughly delicious. There’s something about such a simple, well executed dish, that feels like the truest luxury.
Puddings are rightly taken seriously, too: a blood orange cheesecake and an excellent chocolate mousse (with nostalgic echoes of a Cadbury Pot of Joy, in the best possible way) round off the evening with a flourish.
Julie’s is more than a restaurant; it’s part of London’s cultural fabric. Its rebirth is a triumph, marrying a palpable sense of history with a lively, welcoming spirit. For milestone celebrations, or simply a memorable night out, Julie’s feels once again like the only place to be. We’ll be back for mum’s 90th, not to mention every celebration between now and then…
