The latest offering from Jackson Boxer and the Experimental Group brings an irresistible taste of Paris to Covent Garden
Two weeks of Olympics coverage have left me feeling inspired to renew my acquaintance with France’s captivating capital city. And while I keep an eye out for Eurostar deals, I vow to quench that desire at London’s newest Parisian bistro.
With Jackson Boxer, chef proprietor of Brunswick House and Orasay at its helm, Henri opened at Henrietta Experimental earlier this summer. It is a second collaboration for the renowned chef and the Experimental Group – Jackson’s restaurant at Cowley Manor Experimental opened last summer and was selected earlier this year as a winner at the Condé Nast Traveller UK’s Top New Restaurant Awards. From what I’ve heard, great things are happening at Henri, too, where Jackson has designed a menu that is playfully rooted in tradition and the classical French culinary cannon.
The interiors of the intimate restaurant have been overseen by French designer Dorothée Meilichzon, who took her cues from the visual language of Paris, whilst also referencing Covent Garden’s rich history. Paying tribute to the historic fruit and vegetable market, botanical shapes are woven throughout the space, alongside timeless art nouveau accents. There are sky blue banquettes, classic bentwood chairs, linen-skirted, marble topped tables, mirrored walls, and wooden panelling, all framing the open kitchen and bar. It looks gorgeous – perfect for a cosy candlelit dinner à deux, but we are here for lunch, and the sun is shining, so we choose to dine al fresco instead, and are shown to one of the tables set out on a terrace at the front of the hotel. Here, amidst the bustle of this vibrant London neighbourhood, there are serious Parisian pavement café culture vibes.
Known for bringing Paris’ cocktail culture to London, the Experimental Group has curated a selection of drinks for the menu at Henri, all inspired by French icons. We are expected back at work after lunch, so opt to start with one of the non-alcoholic options, all named after legendary French chefs. Beauvilliers is a refreshing blend of Everleaf Marine, elderflower, lime, and cucumber, topped with a gorgeous egg white foam and garnished with a thin slice of cucumber. It may not contain alcohol, but it feels gloriously grown up and is utterly delicious. As we sip, we tear into a crusty baguette spread lavishly with salted butter.
It is a hot day, and we are craving something light to eat; we have been greedily eyeing our neighbours’ food, and both agree that the carrot râpée with black olive and sesame on the entrée menu looks excellent. The dish evidently comes piled high, and we decide it will be perfect to share, alongside the raw tuna. The salad tastes as good as it looks, and we fight over the last delicious ribbons of carrot. And the tuna is melt in the mouth tender, served with green tomato and melon.
Deciding to save the bavette steak for another time, we both choose Brixham cod for our main. The sweet, delicate taste of the fi sh is offset by a glorious crab bisque. I could quite easily eat a bowl of the latter, and I mop up the last traces from my plate with deliciously salted duck fat fries. Thin cut, golden and perfectly crispy, these are a masterclass in the art of the chip.
Jackson has described Henri as a love letter to Paris, where he learned the ‘art of eating’. Having won our hearts with some seriously good food, he can consider this a love letter to Henri. We will almost certainly be back, next time for dinner, when we have nowhere better to be, and can spend hours exploring the list of wonderful French wines, too.
