It’s a gloriously sunny Friday lunchtime in St James’s and Franco’s is buzzing. Suited regulars, well-heeled shoppers and visitors in-the-know are spilling out onto the pavement terrace, basking in the sunshine. Inside, it’s all warm wood panelling, white tablecloths and black and white photography on the walls; old-school glamour with a distinctly Italian vibe. There’s a hum of conversation and the gentle clink of glasses, the sort of atmosphere that invites you to settle in and forget the clock.
We’re greeted with warmth, the staff here are genuinely lovely, polished but relaxed, and offered a glass of Champagne before we’ve even glanced at the menu. It’s that kind of place. Chilled glasses of rosé follow, pale and elegant, perfectly suited to the late-spring sunshine.
The menu is classic Italian, starters including Parma ham with buffalo mozzarella, and a beef lasagna in the mains, but there are a few surprises, and we start with ceviche. Today’s specials are too tempting to ignore too, so I order tagliatelle, silky ribbons of pasta tossed with roasted aubergine and rich, slow-cooked beef. The morel mushroom risotto is creamy, earthy, and intensely savoury, the grains cooked just to the right side of bite. Both are beautifully plated comfort food at the highest level.
There’s something rare about Franco’s, a sense of timeless hospitality that feels increasingly hard to find in central London. It’s smart without ever being stiff, confident in its traditions but not afraid of a little flair. As we put off leaving by taking our time over coffee and delicious petit fours, watching the lunchtime crowd ebb and flow, it’s easy to understand why this spot has been a St James’s staple for over 80 years. Elegant, easy-going, and just indulgent enough, Franco’s is exactly where we want to be.
