Replacing the Perrier-Jouet Champagne Terrace, Harrods’ newest food and drink offering celebrates the versatility of dim sum, and won’t fail to impress
I don’t associate Harrods with dining out, which probably has more to do with the fact I worked in the famous department store’s school uniform department as a student than anything else. Back then, I was more familiar with the (admittedly excellent) employee canteen than any of the fine dining on offer to customers. So, when an invite comes through to check out Harrods’ newest restaurant, The Dim Sum Terrace from Eddie Lim of Mango Tree, I’m keen to try it (and take a stroll down memory lane).
As it is, I can’t find the school uniform department to have a nosey, so I quickly give up on that idea and wander up to the fourth floor to find the restaurant. Set on one of just two terraces at the store, the space feels intimate and exclusive. It is partly covered, meaning that even the unpredictable British climate won’t spoil the fun. Gorgeous conservatory-style windows flood the indoor area with light, while the al fresco parts of the terrace offer views of the bustling streets below, and out over west London.
We settle on an outside table, noting that there are cosy blankets piled up just inside should the evening turn chilly. We start with a drink; the experts behind the bar have devised a collection of signature cocktails such as the Picanteria: a bright and zingy creation that packs a spicy punch with Jose Cuervo Reposado, fresh coriander, agave syrup, fresh lime juice and jalapeño. There is also an extensive list of traditional Chinese teas, all served in beautiful glass tea-ware, and a good selection of non-alcoholic cocktails.
The menu has been inspired by the teahouses of China and celebrates the versatility of dim sum, with a range of styles and fillings, all handmade by the in-house chefs each morning. The offering is a carefully curated combination of well-loved classics, alongside some more unusual dumplings that are unique to the restaurant, as well as creative takes on traditional Chinese dishes. We order a mixture of steamed and baked dim sum, and as the bamboo baskets filled with bright and beautiful dumplings arrive, we can’t help but be impressed by the presentation and attention to detail.
From the baked and fried menu, we choose venison puffs – they are topped with gold leaf and accompanied by sweet chilli and garlic chilli sauces. Simply put, an utterly delicious upgrade on the sausage roll. Wagyu and taro croquettes are packed with tender beef and a tangy plum sauce, with a crunchy outer coating and a salty caviar topping. Classic, pillowy steamed dumplings include mushroom and truffle buns, these are made to look exactly like big chestnut mushrooms and offer a bold taste of truffle. The pork xiao siu soup buns are incredible – be sure to lean over a plate as you bite into them, as they contain a mouthful of soup that’s far too tasty to waste by letting it dribble down your chin! The presentation is consistently surprising; duck truffle steamed dumplings have gilded crimped seams and are topped with crispy duck skin. The food keeps coming – too many dishes to mention for fear of being judged as complete gluttons. Everything is delicious, and is served at just the right pace, so we feel neither rushed nor impatient. It is safe to say this is a meal we’ll recall fondly for a long time to come.
Fourth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X (020 7225 6800; thedimsumterrace.co.uk)