A truly special meal awaits at this AA Restaurant of the Year Award London winner
If I could bottle the tantalising scents that greeted us as we arrive at Chutney Mary, one of London’s most renowned culinary institutions, I would. And I’d stand to make a fortune, from all the bets I’d place on the fact that one whiff would have you booking a lunchtime reservation the very next day. Truly, it’s that good. Once a Chelsea favourite, it relocated to St. James’s a decade ago and has firmly established itself as a must-visit destination for exceptional pan-Indian cuisine.
The human body is remarkable. While our taste buds detect flavours and relay that information to the brain, an astonishing 80-90 percent of what we perceive as ‘taste’ is actually linked to our sense of smell. I can’t say what magical alchemy the talented regional chefs weave into each carefully crafted dish, but as each plate arrives, it seemed to whisper directly to my taste buds: “Get ready for this!”. I imagine those tiny receptors as eager little emojis, napkins tucked in, knives and forks at the ready. And oh, they are not disappointed.
Top: Halibut Fish Curry, Bottom: Scallops in Mangalorean Sauce
Deciding to share a few small plates to start, and guided by the passionate waiting staff, we embark on our journey with the chilli glazed paneer tikka. These gloriously glazed, deep-red cubes of melt-in-your-mouth paneer, made in-house no less, delight both the sweet and sour receptors of those aforementioned taste buds. A hint of smokiness from the pan-roasted fenugreek and cumin seeds add depth to the mix.
Not to be outdone, the baked venison samosas, a signature dish, prove worthy of their reputation. Shaped into delicate cones of crispy goodness, these beauties are an absolute delight. But for me, atop the trifecta are the scallops in Mangalorean sauce. These perfectly seared, plump morsels from Scotland sit in a golden loch of the most exquisite sauce, a rich blend of coconut, mango, tamarind, and turmeric. Utterly lip-smacking.
For the next course, accompanied by a beautifully crisp, chilled glass of Gavi, we decide to share a selection of larger plates and sides. For our base note, we have Kashmiri pulao, fragrant basmati rice with sour berries, pistachio, and almond; canvas ready, we proceed with rarra gosht, a lamb curry so rich it makes me feel underdressed; murgh makhani (rather thrillingly, an off menu – but not to be missed – butter chicken); baingan bharta, velvety crushed aubergine sautéed with onions, tomatoes, and spices; and the verdant spring leaf saag of mustard leaves, spinach, and garlic. Of course, no Indian feast is complete without a garlic butter naan – to ensure no sauce goes unfinished.
To say we are full would be an understatement. To say we stop there would be an outright fib. We have a duty of care to our taste buds after all, to complete the mission and ensure “sweet” has its moment to shine. And so the grand finale of this extraordinary tour of India is the rasmalai crème brûlée, a creamy, rich custard with a hint of saffron and that oh-so-satisfying crack of caramelised palm sugar. To balance the sweetness are delightful balls of rasmalai, tender cottage cheese adorned with gold leaf, the perfect crowning touch.
Before departing, we are given a tour of the two private dining spaces downstairs. The smaller room seats up to 16 guests, ideal for a birthday celebration or client meeting. The larger room accommodates up to 32 seated guests, perfect for a special occasion. But whether you’re dining with a loved one, or celebrating a larger occasion, I have no doubt you’ll leave feeling like the original and classic thumbs up emoji.
