Hot Table: Mortimer House Kitchen

Set in a majestic Art Deco building in the heart of Fitzrovia, Mortimer House Kitchen ticks all the boxes

I already have a soft spot for Mortimer House Kitchen before I’ve even sat down. Having nipped to the ladies to freshen up, I spot a sign appealing to customers to not flush hopes and dreams down the toilet (along with other undesirable items). It tickles me.

While Mortimer House, with its work and wellbeing spaces, might be strictly members only, the restaurant is open to all. And a more appealing space you’d be hard pressed to find. Set in a majestic Art Deco building in the heart of Fitzrovia, the restaurant is large and open plan. The Deco details continue inside with parquet flooring, mirrored wall panels, feature lights, marble surfaces and vintage copper accents, while comfy sofas, Persian rugs and a forest of indoor plants give the space a warm, homely feel.

On the menu

The all-day menu has been designed by chef Luca Unali (who comes fresh from the kitchens of Cecconi’s) and is largely Mediterranean, with hints of Middle Eastern flavour and a focus on sustainable, organic produce. It is a mix of small, medium and large plates, which all sound delicious, so ever mindful of over ordering, we give our waiter free rein to choose for us.

While we wait for the first dishes to be presented, we tuck into a complimentary basket of warm bread, served with a tahini dip. It is so good that before we know it, we are halfway through a second. Thankfully the first of the small dishes arrive to save us from carb comas.

Mortimer House Kitchen

Soft shell crab is served with a zingy yuzu, coriander and chilli dressing and we fight for the last piece. It seems things cannot get better, but the courgetti – bear with me – served with a pistachio pesto and smoked ricotta is divine, and, coming quickly on its heels, the ravioli with buffalo ricotta and black truffle is possibly the tastiest food I have ever eaten. The sea bass and slow cooked lamb shoulder dishes that round off the savoury element of our meal have to do some serious work to compete, but both are excellent.

This is billed as healthy food, but I’m certain that the quantities we have consumed do not a dieter’s meal make. One thing is for sure, though, every calorie was well and truly worth it, and I urge you to get down there. I’d go for the truffle ravioli every night of the week if I could.

37-41 Mortimer Street, W1T (020 7139 4401;