Review: Harry's Dolce Vita

Harry's Victoria
/

Review: Harry’s Dolce Vita

Only open a month, Harry’s Victoria is channelling Italy’s glamorous 1950s heydays

Words by Becky Pomfret

Once upon a time, eating out near a London train station was a necessary evil, a convenience at best, but thankfully things are a-changing in restaurant land. Kings Cross is a classic example, with some incredible eateries in a transformed area, and Victoria’s Nova is another popular location. Just the other side of Victoria Station on the corner of Grosvenor Gardens is Harry’s, a third London restaurant in the group, the others being in Marylebone and Knightsbridge. Only open a month, it already seems like it’s been there forever, channelling Italy’s glamorous 1950s heyday, on a London corner.

Harry's Victoria

Harry’s offers a sumptuous all day menu of Italian classics for breakfast, lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. The 169 seater venue has a separate bar area serving an authentic aperitivo selection and guests can opt to sit at the counter, ideal for solo diners or those wanting a more casual experience. I visit with a friend on a rare warm evening, and after a glass of Champagne in the bar, we head out to a verdant terrace, seating up to 22 people. We order a bottle of Pinot Grigio Blush and peruse the menu. Executive Chef Simon Gregory and Head Chef Emanuele Giustiniani have curated some delectable dishes; antipasti such as Gamberi e ‘nduja; oven baked prawns in a creamy ‘nduja sauce with datterini tomatoes, baby basil and Amalfi lemon, and indulgent pastas such as Lobster Ravioli, and meat and seafood plates including Truffled Chicken or Frutti Di Mare. As expected, pizzas aren’t forgotten and are crafted with special hand stretched dough made from a mixture of different Italian flours, and then slowly proved for 72 hours, maximising flavour and creating a wonderfully light crust.

Harry's Victoria

To begin, we order fried courgette flowers, drizzled with truffled honey, with mint, pine nut salad and lemon ricotta,  and a creamy burrata from Puglia with prosciutto crudo, pistachio and pane fritto, a deep-fried bread. A tasty start for sure.

For mains, it’s Spigola Grigliata, chargrilled seabass fillet on zucchini, served with a mint and herb salad, and  Tonno Alla Griglia;  lightly grilled tuna and cannellini beans, served with a warm tomato, olive, lemon and basil salsa. As healthy, light, protein-packed summer dishes, they are just the ticket. Although before you think we are too saintly, we do also order the Nduja Maccheroni Cheese Gratin, a huge side dish, so we get our pasta fix.

There are plentiful delicious dessert options, but we are pretty stuffed. We are sorely tempted by the special, signature Harry’s Toadstool with white chocolate, fresh raspberries, mascarpone mousse, iced vanilla parfait and pistachio biscotti crunch served with warm pistachio sauce, even if just to see what it looks like, but in the end, we are too swayed by the cinnamon sugared doughnuts filled with gianduia and hazelnut, served with a hot chocolate dipping sauce.

We’re determined to come back for a cocktail, as the list itself exudes glamour, featuring classics alongside Harry’s twists such as the Sicilian Margarita, and the ultimate after dinner tipple, ‘build your own’ negroni, choosing your preferred spirit, vermouth and bitter aperitivo.

Celebrating the rich culinary heritage of Italy, Harry’s Victoria is set to be the new go-to spot for special occasions, work lunches, or long weekend brunches with friends and family, attracting both Londoners and visitors to the capital.