We were lucky enough to find a table on a Friday night, and as we entered through their very own wine store (which could be dangerous for the pocket if you decide to have a browse after a few cocktails), we descended into a warm and friendly bar. We tried some of the delicious cocktails before moving into the restaurant area. We were eating in The Grill, but there is also another dining area called M Raw for all you sushi-lovers out there. We sat in our own booth and let the sommelier guide us to a Chablis with our starters. We very much enjoyed buttermilk chicken and ham-hock tortellini, served with white truffle cream. For our mains, the meat on offer comes from six different countries, and we opted for the T-bone steak, which came all the way from Kansas. Before we could tuck into that, we were given a treat by Michael Reid, M’s executive chef, who brought a mini-barbeque to our table and swiftly cooked some pieces of Blackmore Wagyu steak for us to try. He explained that this is the ultimate in steak and is usually served in small portions as a delicacy. When cooked, the marbling in the meat (the monosaturated fat) is absorbed into the muscle and gives the meat its texture, tenderness and flavour, which results in the beef literally ‘melting in your mouth’. We can verify that it was probably the best meat we have ever eaten and we sat in stunned silence for a while before remembering our T-bone steak was already on the table. We ate this deliciously tender and enormous serving with triple-cooked chips, buttermilk puree (i.e. the ultimate in mash with a crispy potato skin on the side), and a rich Merlot. How we even dared look at the dessert menu I don’t know, but we did, and fortunately they were delicate and delightful portions of white chocolate ice cream and pavlova.
On the way out we took a peek into The Den, a private members’ area, and met M’s founder Martin Williams (former head honcho at Gaucho) and his handsome labradoodle, Hudson. Martin confided that M runs dog-friendly events (dog speed-dating anyone? Yes, even canines need help finding love sometimes) as well as events of the more human variety. For a warm welcome, stylish décor and artwork, delicious cocktails and a gastronomic feast you’ll be talking about for days, M has truly put Victoria back on the map.