There is something dramatic about arriving in Budapest; the grand boulevards, ripples on the Danube, the architecture; a mix of Neo-Gothic spires beside sweeping Baroque façades and Art Nouveau flourishes. I check into the Radisson Collection Hotel, Basilica Budapest, a property with as much history as style. Once a school, its top floor the old PE and performing arts room, it’s now a Grade II listed building, beautifully restored into a 71-bedroom design hotel. Each room feels unique, shaped by the building’s heritage and character.
Today, it sits directly opposite the Basilica, overlooking the square that transforms into Budapest’s glittering Christmas Market, which draws nearly a million visitors each year. Inside, the atmosphere blends grandeur with warmth, soaring ceilings, curated local artwork and subtle nods to the building’s past.
As General Manager Norbert Polyák puts it, “This hotel is more than just a place to stay: it’s an invitation to experience Budapest in a new way. We’ve created a setting where contemporary design meets the rhythm of the city, with every detail carefully curated to inspire and connect. Whether it’s a quiet morning overlooking the basilica or an evening on our rooftop, guests will feel part of something truly special.”
My room overlooks the Basilica. With such a grand view, the room is rightly a contrast, minimalist yet indulgent, complete with the signature Radisson rainforest shower. The décor carries Japanese-Peruvian influences, with elephants, a symbol of good luck, woven throughout. On the roof, ISSEI serves Nikkei cuisine, a vibrant fusion of Japanese precision and Peruvian flair, paired with panoramic skyline views that make dinner feel extra special. Particularly with the powerful booming sound of the Basilica bells dominating the air.
Breakfast at The Arc, the hotel’s relaxed restaurant and function space, is a serene affair – strong coffee, flaky pastries, and soft jazz drifting through the space. From here, getting around couldn’t be easier. The Budapest Go app makes hopping on the trams seamless, fast and scenic, connecting both sides of the city, Buda and Pest, with ease.
I spend the morning exploring the Grand Market Hall, a sensory whirlwind of paprika, honey and handmade goods, munching on a traditional ‘Chimney Cake’ before crossing the Liberty Bridge into Pest’s leafy City Park. At the heart of Budapest’s grand boulevards lies Heroes’ Square, reminding me of Trafalgar Square, it’s framed by colonnades of statues honouring Hungary’s most legendary leaders. At its centre rises the Millennium Monument, a towering Corinthian column topped by the Archangel Gabriel, built to celebrate the country’s thousandth anniversary. The surrounding sculptures depict the seven chieftains who founded Hungary, while the two curved colonnades pay tribute to kings, statesmen and revolutionaries who shaped its story. Flanked by the Museum of Fine Arts and the Műcsarnok (Hall of Art), the square is both a cultural and historical anchor, and on my visit there is a William Blake exhibition at the museum which I cannot miss. It’s on until January 11th, so definitely worth a visit.
Lunch follows at Gundel, more an institution than a restaurant and at 131 years old, once the Zoo’s dining room, it’s still the soul of Hungarian hospitality. The founder, Charles Gundel, was known for his impeccable service standards and warm, welcoming ethos, his belief that fine dining should still feel like home. The famous Gundel elephant logo, designed by Milton Glaser, creator of the I ❤ NY logo and friend of Charles Gundel, nods to its origins. Once reserved for dignitaries, it now welcomes everyone, serving reimagined comfort food that’s as elegant as it is heartfelt.
That evening, I board the Thetis Luxury Yacht for a private Danube dinner cruise, a four-course feast with an open bar and glittering views of the city by night. The crew are warm and effortlessly friendly, creating a relaxed, elegant atmosphere. As we glide beneath Budapest’s illuminated bridges, I can see why Katy Perry and Tom Holland, among other celebs, have sailed on the same yacht. The night is still young as we dock, so we head into the Jewish Quarter to visit a ‘Ruin Bar’. Often occupying abandoned and derelict buildings, these bars bring life (and a lot of visitors!) back into the buildings, and are packed with vintage, eclectic decor. Well worth a visit.
The next morning, another unhurried breakfast at The Arc, one last look at the Basilica’s golden dome, and a quiet promise to return, as the famous Budapest baths simply must be visited the next time.
