Stepping out of the car in front of the hotel, we are greeted by a fresh sea breeze; after Marrakesh’s unrelenting heat, it is gloriously welcome. Located in an isolated position beside the saltwater lagoon in the sleepy village of Oualidia, La Sultana sits in lush gardens planted with palm and jacaranda trees, cacti and agaves, and colourful oleander bushes – it is quite the contrast to the barren desert landscape we have navigated to get here. Though it looks like it has stood for centuries, the fortress-like building – with its thick stone walls, arrow slit windows and turrets – was purpose built, using traditional Moroccan drywalling techniques, in 2007. There are just 12 bedrooms and suites here, making it feel more like a large private home than a hotel.
The service is nothing short of five star, though; we are greeted like old friends and shown to an al fresco terrace overlooking the lagoon, where we are presented with a selection of sweet Moroccan pastries and a cup of steaming mint tea – poured theatrically from a great height. Everything is delicious, and very welcome after our long drive.
We are staying in a lagoon suite that is set high up in one of the turrets. With vast windows on three sides, it has a gloriously bright and airy feel, and the thick stone walls and marble floor ensure that it is deliciously cool, too. A huge four poster sits in the centre of the room, so high that a wooden step has been provided to help guests get into bed. In the corner, fretwork screens hide a marble bathtub that is perfectly sized for two, while outside on the terrace, a Jacuzzi bath offers the perfect spot to soak up the views. And the indulgence continues in the bathroom, where the amenities include spa-like toiletries and a Dyson hairdryer and straighteners. We will clearly want for nothing – though should we discover anything lacking, we can contact our personal butler using the mobile phone that has been provided specifically for this purpose. Luxury indeed.
We enjoy a late lunch at La Table de La Plage, where the vibe is relaxed. Locally caught seafood is the star of the show, complemented by a rainbow of fresh vegetables grown on site in the hotel’s organic garden. For me, a stunningly beautiful vegetable tart to start, followed by spider crab linguine. Everything is exquisitely fresh. Afterwards, sleepy from our travels, and full of good food, we venture only as far as the hotel’s peaceful infinity pool, where we admire the view of the tide creeping in across the lagoon’s shores from the comfort of a decadent day bed and take an occasional cooling dip.
Dinner that evening, served in a Berber tent on the beach, is a memorable experience. My monkfish tagine is excellent, but it is trumped by dessert – s’mores cooked over an open fire by the water’s edge, made with homemade marshmallows that are almost too big to fit in our mouths. Sticky but happy, we head back to the suite for a spot of stargazing on the terrace.
The next morning, we are up early to make the most of a sunrise yoga session in the garden, but first, fresh coffee and warm, flaky pastries, delivered discreetly to a small cupboard outside the door of the room. In the garden, we roll out our mats, relishing the opportunity to stretch out in the morning light while taking in the sights and sounds of the lagoon. We have a surfing lesson booked later, so I am feeling quite smug about our holiday activity levels as I order Moroccan pancakes for breakfast, and tuck into more of the delicious pastries from the irresistible buffet spread.
Situated on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, Oualidia is a haven for surfers, and while the towering breakers on the exposed shoreline are for the experienced only, within the safety of the lagoon, the waves are perfect for learners. We are taken from the hotel to the local surf school aboard a traditional Moroccan wooden boat; it is a short trip and gives us the perfect opportunity to see a bit more of the area, including the summer palace of King Mohammed V, who decreed Oualidia Morocco’s first royal beach in the 1940s. Once grand, it is now abandoned and protected by guards, who prevent us from taking photos, but cannot stop us from gawping.
Kitted out with wetsuits and boards, we head out to a sandbar to perfect our ‘pop-up’ – the transition from lying down to standing up on the board – and then paddle out to catch some waves. With the help of our instructor Simo, we have all managed to get to our feet and ride several waves before the 90-minute lesson is over.
It is exhilarating, but exhausting, and our muscles are complaining by the time we return to the hotel – a fitting excuse to check out the facilities at spa. With stone pillars and a domed glass roof over the sun-dappled swimming pool, the subterranean space has a cathedral-like feel. There is a Jacuzzi, sauna and Hammam, along with five treatment rooms. We have the space to ourselves and enjoy a peaceful swim before indulging in a blissful full body massage.
The rest of our stay passes in a foodie blur – the next day we are treated to a luxurious picnic on a secluded stretch of sand facing the Atlantic. A beautifully set table sits under a canvas canopy; there are oysters from the local farm to start, and a seafood feast cooked on a barbecue follows. Getting to the spot has involved a boat trip and a small hike over the cliffs, so we are in awe of the team from La Sultana who have brought everything here for us. Later in the week, we enjoy a hands-on culinary masterclass in the hotel kitchen, learning how to make chicken, seafood and vegetable tagines. Cooking done, the kitchen team process to the organic garden with our creations and serve us lunch in a thatched hut overlooking the garden and the lagoon beyond. Afterwards, we are treated to a Moroccan tea ceremony, learning about the tea’s history, and how to make and serve it. The higher the pour, the greater the respect and the warmer the welcome, apparently – we are evidently very welcome at La Sultana.
On our last evening, we dine at Jan Janz, the hotel’s newest restaurant, which opened this spring. With a focus on nourishing, health-conscious cuisine, the menu here offers a refined blend of Far Eastern and Moroccan flavours. We tuck into platters of dim sum, sushi and sashimi, and I enjoy a red curry of braised beef served with fragrant jasmine rice. And we round off the meal with delicious mouthfuls of chocolate mochi. The food here has been truly exceptional, as has every detail of our stay. How we will ever go back to everyday life I do not know… but before then, one more night of stargazing on the suite’s terrace beckons.
