It’s easy to think I know Paris. But on a recent visit, I set out to explore Paris La Défense, a part of the city I’d always associated with business suits and corporate towers, likening it in my mind to the Canary Wharf of Paris. What I find is far more interesting: a district in the midst of a transformation, full of life, art and surprising charm, with design-led hotels, buzzing festivals and a cultural energy all its own.
Getting here is effortless. I step off the Eurostar at Gare du Nord and within fifteen minutes I’m at La Défense, thanks to the newly extended RER E line. It feels refreshingly smooth compared to the usual Paris arrival routine. I check in at Melia Paris La Défense, a sleek, modern hotel that immediately sets the tone. My room frames an uninterrupted view of the Eiffel Tower, but it’s tea on the 19th-floor terrace that really wins me over, quiet and a perfect vantage point to take in this lesser-known part of the city, whilst reminding me of how close to the centre of Paris we really are.
Throughout my stay, I realise this isn’t just a business district. The fact it’s fully pedestrianised (all 30,000 hectares) helps and that Garden Parvis, La Défense’s lively summer festival, is in full swing. The atmosphere is relaxed and inviting, with outdoor bars, live music and creative workshops filling the open squares. I take a guided walk with Echappée Belle to discover La Défense’s extraordinary public art collection: over 60 artworks including giant sculptures by César and Calder tucked between striking modern architecture. It feels like an open-air museum, but without the entrance fee. As a contrast, if retail therapy is your thing, Westfield Les 4 Temps, one of Europe’s largest shopping centres, is a familiar and friendly place to browse and pick up some presents.
There’s no shortage of places to eat here, in fact there are over 150 restaurants here. Lunch at Eclipse, a stylish brasserie beside the Grande Arche, is a highlight. We check out Muses, in the Hilton too, as our research as pastry lovers has led us to believe that we are in for a treat here. Creations by Nina Métayer, crowned World Pastry Chef, headline the dessert offering. Her lemon meringue pie will live on in my memory for much longer than it lasted on my plate. We also pop into the very cool hotel, Mama Shelter La Défense, where the rooftop terrace serves up inventive cocktails in a funky setting.
Feeling fortified we pop into Zoo Art Show, a celebration of graffiti, and the coolest exhibition in town. 500 urban artists are represented here, and I can guarantee you’ll come out with 500 photos! Up next is Cité de l’Histoire and Eternelle Notre-Dame, offering immersive ways to explore French history and architecture. As someone who hasn’t really dipped a toe into a virtual world before, this is one of the most fun experiences I’ve ever had. We ducked under low beams, went up onto the roof, and down lots of steps, all whilst keeping our feet firmly on the ground in one large room. One of the group had a sneak peek from under her headset to see us all staring intently at a wall! I can only wish that this technology had been around when I did my history ‘A’ Level as my result may have had a different outcome!
Even nature plays a starring role here. I join a morning tour with Jardins de Gally through landscaped gardens hidden under footbridges, and eco-parks, part of the district’s ambition to become Europe’s largest pedestrian zone and a leader in sustainable urban living. The sheer scale of green space surprises me and I learn that there are almost 4,000 trees, and plans for more. There’s a vision here that is positive and forward-thinking.
On my final evening, I experience the ultimate contrast: a night at Paris La Défense Arena for a Robbie Williams concert, the perfect way to round off a trip that has been anything but corporate. Being able to walk back to the hotel after a brilliant night, swerving the crowds heading into the Metro, is the cherry on the cake.
For travellers who want to experience a different side of Paris, stylish, accessible, and surprising, La Défense is well worth exploring. I leave already plotting my return to visit the 30th edition of the Paris La Défense Christmas Market where 250 exhibitors will be exhibiting their festive wares. I’d better take my biggest suitcase.
