Estiatorio Milos: A Mediterranean Masterpiece
Regent St. James’s is a prestigious area in central London, known for its blend of history, luxury, and modern sophistication. Situated near Piccadilly Circus, it serves as a hub for high-end retail, fine dining, and cultural landmarks. The area offers a unique mix of flagship stores, boutique shops, and internationally acclaimed restaurants, making it a hotspot for locals and tourists alike. The perfect spot, then, for the London outpost of The Milos Restaurant Group, founded by acclaimed chef Costas Spiliadis.
The group is renowned for its focus on fresh, high-quality Mediterranean cuisine with a particular emphasis on Greek seafood. The first restaurant opened in Montreal in 1979 and has since expanded globally, with locations in New York, Las Vegas, Miami, and Athens. Featuring classic dishes such as fresh fish and tzatziki, the menu emphasizes simplicity and authentic flavours, and a welcoming, sharing approach to dining.
The London restaurant, estiatorio Milos, opened its grand, huge, wooden doors in 2015 in historic British Columbia House, a Grade II-listed building originally constructed around 100 years before that, and it has been carefully converted into a stylish, welcoming restaurant. We certainly get a warm welcome on a recent visit, when a friend and I come in from the cold for lunch. We have a tour of the restaurant, admiring the upstairs seating and private dining areas. Huge Grecian urns are on the stairs next to an original lift that was a surprise find to the new owners of the building, and indeed the builders who discovered it when doing the renovation, as it had been completely sealed in.
One of the unique features of this restaurant is the ‘captain’ who guides guests through the ‘fish market’, which features a spectacular raw seafood bar, the crown jewel of Milos hospitality. Guests can feel like they are in a sunny Greek seaside town, picking out their own catch of the day, flown in fresh, straight from the Med.
The ingredients selected by guests are incorporated into a variety of dishes such as plates of raw fish including the Mediterranean Hunter Fish which can be enjoyed as both Sashimi or a Tartare or a selection of fish baked in sea salt, such as Loup de Mer, Milokopi and Rofos. In keeping with the Ancient Greek tradition of curing fish, estiatorio Milos serves a range of cured fish delicacies, such as hot smoked eel. We chat to our knowledgeable waiter about the most popular dishes, and he brings us a Milos Special, lightly fried thin and crispy slices of courgette and aubergine stacked into a tower and served with Kefalograviera cheese and tzatziki. We simply have to order a Greek Salad too, and it’s packed with olives and huge triangles of feta, drizzled with the most delicious extra virgin olive oil.
Next up come some surprise dishes, as my friend speaks excellent Greek, and I do not, so I’m blissfully unaware of what’s being discussed and indeed ordered. A feast for the senses, a generous plate of cuttlefish with black ink risotto makes a dramatic entrance, its flavours as bold as its presentation. Each bite carries the unmistakable richness of the sea, perfectly complemented by the creamy, umami-laden risotto.
Next, the grilled Mediterranean octopus, served alongside silky Santorini fava, showcasing a mastery of texture and balance. The char on the octopus delivers smoky depth, while the velvety fava provides a smooth, earthy counterpoint.
The star of the show, however, is the grilled sea bream—a true testament to the restaurant’s commitment to freshness. Delicately flaking at the touch of a fork, the fish is tender and succulent, its flavour amplified by its “just-out-of-the-sea” quality.
Despite protests of being “too full,” our waiter sees through us and delivers a tray of indulgent delights to close the meal on a perfect note. The Greek Yogurt ‘Martini’ is a creamy, tangy treat, elevated by an elegant presentation, while the Honey Cake adds a rich, sweet warmth. A vibrant platter of fresh fruit balances the decadence, providing a refreshing finale.
On our way out, trays of tempting Baklava catch our eye, making it almost impossible to resist. The restaurant’s welcoming atmosphere has undoubtedly left its mark, prompting us to vow a return visit—this time to try the pre-theatre menu, an exceptional deal at just £32 for three courses. Pairing it with a signature cocktail or two sounds like the perfect excuse to experience this charming spot again.
