From peaceful mornings by the lake to lively dinners in Fulton Market, Chicago is nothing short of magical, and The Emily offers visitors a truly special place from which to enjoy everything it has to offer
Chicago Skyline (Image by Cam Casey)
Early in the morning, too early for most, I find myself standing on the shores of Lake Michigan in Chicago, the city still waking up around me. The water glitters with the first rays of the rising sun, and boats bob quietly at their moorings, as if deep in their own morning meditation. Overhead, seagulls drift through the warm air, their calls mixing with the gentle whispering of the trees lining the waterfront.
Jet-lagged but determined, I have set out for a run along one of the city’s most iconic paths – the Riverwalk. Bleary-eyed but eager to explore, I decide to make the most of rising early, lacing up my trainers and setting off through the streets and along the waterway that winds through the city’s heart. The Chicago River, once the pulse of trade and industry here, becomes my guide as I navigate this unfamiliar city. Towering skyscrapers punctuate a patchwork of world-renowned architecture, the sleek and modern sitting alongside the historic, with bridges of all designs stretching over the water alongside me. It is a cityscape that seems to murmur stories of resilience, rebirth, and reinvention – a testament to the city’s ever-evolving identity
FORA restaurant at The Emily hotel
This hour – as the sun blooms over the funfair rides along Navy Pier – quickly becomes my favourite time of day here. But as stunning as these reflective mornings are, they are just one of many wonderful things I discover in Chicago, where the buzzing local culture, welcoming atmosphere and burgeoning food scene draw me in deeper with every passing day. And nowhere is all of this more apparent than at my hotel, in the trendy Fulton Market District on Chicago’s West Loop.
Formerly the Ace Hotel, The Emily feels like the embodiment of this city’s unique brand of cool. The design is chic, minimalist and art led. Throughout the sleek, sociable common spaces, the interiors carefully balance sophistication with a sense of relaxed living – I am fascinated by the striking artworks lining the walls, all I am told, created by local artists, and part of an ongoing artist in residence programme. In my comfortable bedroom, mixed textiles and organic textures seem to connect the hotel with the nature and the urban landscape that it sits within; the result is warm and welcoming, and I feel instantly at home here.
Though the hotel is within walking distance of the heart of the city – the immediate neighbourhood is equally appealing. I find myself wandering between stylish boutiques, artisanal coffee shops, and some of the city’s best restaurants and bars. A few steps from the hotel, I discover The Oakville Grill & Cellar (theoakville.com), a true gem in a sea of incredible restaurants. The farm-to-table dishes here, paired with a thoughtfully curated wine list, make for one of my favourite meals in the city. The warmth of the place, combined with the creative food, leave me feeling connected not just to the meal but to Chicago itself.
Bedroom at The Emily hotel
That said, the food offering at the hotel is pretty impressive, too. Indeed, The Emily bills itself as much as a hip local hangout as a place for tourists to lay their heads, and there are various options when it comes to eating here. On the terrace at Fora I enjoy a tasty bite from the globally inspired all-day menu. Dinner at Sushi by Bou offers something a little more intimate and unique: an elevated omakase experience is set to hip-hop beats, the blend of unexpected flavours and sounds making for an unforgettable night. I spend another memorable evening relaxing at the rooftop cinema club on the fifth-floor terrace, watching a film under the stars, before moving on to Selva, the stylish Latin-American inspired bar perched on the seventh floor. Here, the handcrafted cocktails and city views are truly spectacular. Come the morning, the hotel’s coffee bar serves up fresh, locally roasted brews from Sparrow Coffee accompanied by out-of-this-world bakes crafted by pastry wizard Dan the Baker (danthebakerchicago.com) whose creations are nothing short of edible art.
Of course, no trip to Chicago would be complete without embracing the full range of experiences the city has to offer. If you’re the kind who likes to follow their stomach, and doesn’t mind a little pedalling, I highly recommend skipping breakfast and jumping on a Bikes, Bites and Brews tour (bobbysbikehike.com) – this food focused cycling tour around some of Chicago’s most famous, vibrant and diverse districts is great for discovering more about the local history, and incorporates plenty of stops to sample the local specialities. Fuelling the pedalling, we tuck into famous deep-dish pizza, hot dogs (no ketchup – because in Chicago, it’s practically a rule not to) and local brews.
Cloud Gate by Anish Kapoor (Image by Jansen Miller)
The next day we hire kayaks from Urban Kayaks (urbankayaks.com) and head out to experience Chicago from out on the water, paddling between the city’s skyscrapers and absorbing the city’s most iconic sites from a whole new angle. And if that sounds too much like hard work, you get a similar perspective on a river cruise, which gives you the opportunity to learn about local design and architecture from some of the city’s most knowledgeable guides (cruisechicago.com).
We also spend a chilled-out afternoon wandering through Millennium Park, marvelling at the gigantic alien-drop like sculpture, Cloud Gate (better known to locals as “The Bean”), nosey through the art galleries, catch a Cubs game at the historic Wrigley Field, and stand 103 floors up on the glass-floored balconies of the Willis Tower Skydeck (theskydeck.com).
Chicago is a city where past and present meet, where innovation thrives, and where every corner offers something new to discover. This gorgeous city has a way of capturing your heart and refusing to let go; I know mine is still there, waiting for my next visit.
